For many years, I have wanted to visit the heart and soul of the koi hobby, Niigata, Japan, the birthplace of nishikigoi or fancy carp. The area, only a few hours by bullet train from Tokyo, is many more years removed from the hustle bustle fast paced life of 21st century Tokyo. The main city, Ojiya City, is an agricultural area most famous for its rice production. Geographically the area, consisting of the famous 20 villages, is surrounded on three sides by mountains and borders the country’s longest river, Shinano, which meanders through and empties into the Sea of Japan at Niigata City on the coast. The area is also known as Yamakoshi-ken.

Just as many golfers want to visit Scotland to be where the popular game began, anthropologists want to visit Papua, New Guinea, to visit cultures of the Stone Age, people of all religions want to visit Jerusalem, I wanted to see the area of Yamakoshi, the twenty villages, where the koi are bred, and talk to the current generation of Japanese breeders who mix science, art, and unknown magic to create these wonderful colorful carp called koi.

Although some people attempt to make this trip without a guide, I could not imagine driving on the reverse side of the highway through winding mountainous one lane roads which have no signs. Adding to that, I do not speak or read Japanese. Most hobbyists on a koi hunt will go with a knowledgeable guide who has a facility with the language and a working relationship with the breeders. There are several people in the United States who offer such services and who advertise in hobbyist magazines and on the web.

We went with Kaz Takeda who has been leading groups for many years. My late husband and I attended his tour to the All-Japan Show of January 1988 and the Ryunkai Show and a koi buying tour in Niigata in November of 1994. My husband, also, had gone on several trips to Japan with Kaz. Our families have been friends for a long time beginning when Kaz was a dealer in Fresno, California, and later, in Orange County, California.

My journey began in Tokyo for a two-day sightseeing whirlwind tour shared with two friends and koi hobbyists, Judy Walker from Newport Beach, California, and Barbara Flowers from Denver, Colorado. After landing at the sprawling Narita Airport and an hour bus ride to Tokyo, we checked into the luxurious New Otani Hotel, featuring a beautiful 400 year old garden which once belonged to a feudal lord. It encompasses 10 acres (4 hectares) of ponds, bamboo groves, bridges, and several unusual lanterns.

New Otani Hotel Garden -

The next day, we visited a well known koi hobbyist and friend in Tokyo, Mr. Shige Takahashi. He is very active in a hobbyist organization in Japan, the Ryunkai Association. His koi pond houses many award winning koi including Grand Champions. In Japan, award winning koi are truly jewels to see, almost perfection in size, body shape, depth of color, and beautiful patterns.

The next morning we visited the Ginza, the Rodeo Drive of Tokyo, to see the opening of a department store. At 10:00 am music is played and the sales associates line up to welcome everyone to the Mitsukoshi Department Store. As we enter, each individual bows and welcomes us with a Japanese phrase. We visited all the floors from clothing, home goods, accessories, but the favorites were the two basement levels which feature food -- fresh fish and poultry as well as exquisite bakery treats and prepared meals to go.

 Morning opening at Mitsukoshi Department Store >

The breeders usually have several locations within the area. Especially during the fall season when they are draining the mudponds and meeting with clients, it is very important to make an appointment. To do otherwise might risk making a long trip for nothing.  

The next day, Wednesday, we begin the first of our four day koi hunt. We are joined by several other couples who are accompanied by their dealer, Mike Swanson from Minnesota. His son Devin is spending the year in Japan working with one of the most renowned breeders, Mr. Hisashi Hirasawa of Marudo Koi Farm. After all the introductions are made we climb into our mini-bus and anticipate our first stop. Passing the headquarters of the All-Japan Breeders Association, we come to Isa Koi Farm, known for excellent gosanke, especially showa. However, we see excellent examples of all varieties.

The plan was to spend a few days surveying the koi, asking the breeders to hold any we were interested in, and then returning to purchase what we wanted. Most of the breeders want payment in Japanese yen. However, there were a few who accepted charge cards, which is so much more convenient for foreigners. In Japan changing money is not a simple matter as in other countries. The only ATM machines that work with American cards seem to be found in the convenience stores.

Isa Koi Farm was full of excitement and activity. Everyone was curious about the koi being brought in from the mudponds. I suddenly felt anxiety creeping into my gut as I wondered how I was going to select one or two koi from all of these wonderful specimens, and which would fit into my budget.  

No time to waste, we clamored into the bus for our next stop, Suda Koi Farm. Mr. and Mrs. Suda have been long time friends of mine as Mr. Suda has judged our local show on a few occasions and the family has visited ours when they were in California. I was so excited to see them.

Mr. Suda is said to have originated the long finned or “butterfly koi”. He also specializes in unusual varieties of koi. In addition, he raises non-ornamental fish for other industries. His son, Kazutaka, is now running the business. After looking at the ponds, we say good-bye with a plan to meet Saturday night to celebrate Mrs. Suda’s birthday.

We take a break for lunch. On the way, we stop at a koi dry goods shop which carried nets, tubs, air stones, fittings -- a Home Depot for koi! Although buying a new net was very tempting, I knew it would be impractical and would not pass as carry-on luggage!

< Miyaishi Dry Goods Store 

 
Shusui

< Shusui and asagi

Thursday morning we have a traditional breakfast at the hotel. Fortunately Kaz joins us to explain all the delicacies and how to eat them. On the artistically arranged platters are several varieties of fish as well as pickled vegetables and fermented beans and rice. Of course, miso and hot green tea are also served.

< Breakfast at Sun Rolla

Afterwards, we board the bus to travel 50 minutes to the west coast of Japan to visit a very famous gin rin kohaku breeder, Mr. Kiichi Hoshino of Teradomari Koi Farm. His brood stock is from the famous Hoshikin female kohaku and a gin rin male from the Suda Koi Farm. The Teradomari koi has a wonderful body shape and its gin (diamond scales) are said to be long lasting and will not fade as is customary with koi over 2 feet (61 cm) in length.

< Mr. Kiichi Hoshino of Teradomari

According to an article I read, Mr. Hirasawa is well aware of the importance of genealogy, the mama and the papa, and the skill of the breeder. However, the environment plays an important role as one needs to keep the koi healthy and with a good appetite. His goal is to breed the most beautiful koi that anyone has ever seen and to have it win awards. I am hoping that as well! I selected a beautiful kohaku to hold. I am cautious as it is not of a classic design; the five step hi pattern drips onto the face of the koi. I think when it grows larger and has more bulk it will be an eye-catcher. 

Maruda showa >

Our first stop Friday was at a father and son koi farm, Kanno, which specialized in goshiki. Mr. Kazuhiro Hirasawa and his son were definitely personable and very proud to show us what they had accomplished. I had never seen such striking examples of goshiki. The scales were evenly reticulated on the body and the hi pattern looked like carefully cut out forms without reticulation placed on top. The intensity and luminosity of the red seemed almost metallic. All of these attributes are very seldom seen and are quite beautiful.

 Kanno goshiki

It is the end of the day on Friday and several in the group want to revisit some of the breeders. Our last stop for the day is a return visit to the Marudo Koi Farm which continues to be very busy with customers. The koi were very beautiful and some of us make our selections. I decide on a beautiful four step kohaku which will stay in Japan one more season for growth. I have never done this before and hope the koi stays safe from predators. It was already nightfall by the time all the business transactions were completed.

I have purchased three lovely koi during our three days and am so happy with my selections. However, we have one more day to look as some of the other group members are still not done shopping.  

The day is coming to an end but we still have a few more stops. One of the hobbyists wants to see a koi at the Ikarashi Koi Farm. It seems that more showas were pulled from the mudpond.

Ikarashi showa > | Ikarashi and group >>

Then we need to stop at the Marudo Koi Farm for one last transaction.

< Marudo kohaku
<< Measuring the koi at Marudo

As the sun starts to set we stop at a cultural arts center to look at some of the handicrafts of the area. Then it’s off to the hotel to get ready for Mrs. Suda’s birthday party.

< Cultural Arts Center

The next day we did some last minute shopping and then boarded the bullet train back to Tokyo and then yet another train to the airport. I was so proud and relieved that we found our way in the crowded stations with a maze of different levels and tracks.

The visit to this magical land with the beauty of the landscape and the warmth of the people was so memorable. One can feel the presence of former generations of koi breeders watching over their legacy and marveling at the beautiful creations of nishikigoi. After seeing first hand all the efforts of time, money and experience that go into the breeding of koi, I have a new found responsibility to nourish, maintain and foster the growth and health of the koi in my pond.

Judy Walker, the author and Barbara Flowers in the Narita Airport >